Creating the Collection

This collection was created in the course of 6 months as part of my haute couture specialization at ESMOD. I had 4 classes that helped me with different aspects of my brand and collection: design, pattern making, production, and branding. 4 looks from the collection were chosen to be created in the final fabric. Below you can see the process of how I created the bodysuit, stitched finishings, and ultimately created the look 'Edith.' Also, the final drapings used in the collection with progress pictures.

tape used for draping

Making the Bodysuit

The bustier bodysuit serves as the base for each draped design. It is made with illusion tulle so it blends into the skin and is almost invisible. Here you can see how the bodysuit evolved between fittings. The more precise the fit is, the more the bodysuit blends into the skin. There is gold boning at the princess, side seams and bust. The back is finished with an invisible zipper and gold buttons.

first fitting without boning

all seam allowances are pressed, but not yet stitched down

upper: 1 layer of fabric

torso and bottom: 2 layers of fabric each, 1 cut on the straight grain and 1 cut on the cross grain to increase durability and reduce stretch

second fitting with boning

.5cm wide boning

underwire

testing finishing around the leg:

.5cm laminette

(not used in final design)

seam allowances are stitched at .5cm and the excess is cut

cutting the fabric

gold buttons and boning:

the spiral boning and underwire are spray painted gold

Circle Finishings

When sewing the finishings on the circles, I had to pay close attention to the bias stretching. Since organdy fabric is lightweight it stretches even more easily. I tried multiple variations of finishings to maintain the shape. The best technique is detailed in the 'operation description, from one of my tech packs (see below)